RIP: All Bar One (Islington)

"This place sticks to the tried, tested, and apparently successful All Bar One formula which has been replicated nationwide. A cavernous barn of a place, its rammed to the gills with people who feel that three pounds is a perfectly acceptable price for a bottled beer, but they’d really rather pay over the odds for a bottle of wine. Like all the other branches, they have some rather peculiar customs. Your change (should you be fortunate enough to see some of it) will be presented to you on a tray. Why? And bottled beers should apparently stay in the bottle. Asking for a glass (and you will have to ask) is met with a blank stare. Perhaps they’re trying to save on the washing up. I can sympathise with that. No matter what you ask for, be it overpriced beer, the classic big white plate of small uninspired food, or god love them, pistachio nuts in a bowl, it’ll be served with a side order of disinterest from the staff who look like they’d really rather be off doing something less boring instead. We’ve made a number of visits to this place (it’s an office haunt) and the service has been consistently poor on each and every occasion. This area is packed full of places to enjoy a drink, both chain venues and independent hostelries. Our advice is to give your ears and your wallet a break, and head off elsewhere. (12/10/2003)"