The Old Dairy, Finsbury Park  

The people responsible for a small gaggle of upmarket gastroesque pubs in North London have turned their hand to the impressive space occupied by the popular Old Dairy. They've stuck to their tried and tested formula - sympathetic refurbishment, dark, moody lighting and a large restaurant area. In some of their smaller pubs this latter feature has been frustrating, as it leads to unpleasant overcrowding in the drinking section, whilst the eating bit remains stubbornly underpopulated. At the Old Dairy, the pub's size saves the day, as there was enough seating on our weekday visit for everyone. We can't vouch for the weekend though, but it looks like becoming very busy. There's a laid back atmosphere, a good selection of ale and a good British menu. As elegant as their ambitions are, they're also apparently prepared to bow to popular culture and were showing the football on our visit. We liked the Old Dairy before, but its new incarnation isn't too shoddy either.