Canal 125 , King's Cross  

Set amid the mind-boggling 'rejuvenation' (ahem) that is taking place north of Kings Cross at a phenomenal rate, Canal 125 may be trying to be all things to all men, and women, and not really trying to pull off what they're trying to achieve. Inside, it's a great space. A vaguely separate dining area sits at the top of a long bar, which leads out onto a spacious balconied area overlooking the canal. We didn't spot any rogue supermarket trolleys sailing past down below, so maybe things are indeed being spruced up. A good range of beers and an extensive wine list are on offer and service at the bar is friendly, attentive and a real asset to the place. We tried the food and it was fabulous: not cheap, but well proportioned and beautifully presented with top notch ingredients (chicken is both corn-fed and free range). However, the place is somewhat schizophrenic in reality. The place is usually packed, and it's not exactly conducive to a good night out if someone's backside is constantly banging off the back of your head (there's a time and place for that sort of thing). And if you're unable to hear what the person sitting next to you is saying due to the intestine-rattling soundtrack supplied by the over-enthusiastic DJ, you won't want to hang around. Canal 125 seems to think that it can offer something new to the crowded market: a gastroclub. We not sure it's going to work. It just doesn't fit in such a small place. Our advice? Hang the DJ and give the speakers a rest. It's attracting a lively, chatty crowd, and as a result the cacophony of noise is almost unbearable. You have a great space, in a good location and you don't need the ear-bleeding Strings of Life remix.

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