The George, Bishopsgate  

It's not too often you'll find a hotel bar on Fancyapint? but then again, it's not too often you'll find one like this. Part of the Conran remodelling of the Great Eastern Hotel, this goes for a traditional and high-class feel. For a start, it looks stunning: leaded windows, wood panelled and with a high ceiling, it even sports a massive (and ornately framed) picture of 17th century Bishopsgate behind the bar. It's well stocked with food and drink which aren't overly priced, yet it never quite clicks. Although it looks majestic, the pub's space is too small for such grand designs - imagine a miniature version of a City bank retro-conversion and you're not far away. Just like some of those Bank jobs, the building may have a great longevity to it but it's very difficult to graft on a pub and make it feel equally as enduring: a classic little boozer exudes a warmth and snugness that's missing here. Also, the St. George theme soon begins to grate on us: fine to have the ol' dragon-slayer's cross on the pub's menus, but do you really need it on its ashtrays and plastered across the staff's shirts? If you can put up with the branding then you should be OK. One mark in this one's favour: what with this being a hotel bar you are provided with some of the cleanest pub conveniences in the capital.

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