The Black Swan Hotel, Middleham  

Our favourite of Middleham's pubs, the Black Swan is everything you'd expect of a pub in these parts. A Grade II listed building, the pub oozes atmosphere and history (Richard III's castle is right behind it) and on a cold winter's day with the log fire going and a pint of Black Sheep in front of you, the world seems not be such a bad place after all. Not surprisingly, it's popular with the locals too, who'll periodically spend a few minutes transfixed in front of the racing on the telly and then back to supping the odd pint and nattering with friends and colleagues from the stables all around the town. It's a great pub for anyone, but if you're a fan of both pubs and the Sport of Kings it's probably the closest you'll get to heaven down here.

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