The Devonshire, Chiswick  

The Devonshire is the third pub to fall under the control of Gordon Ramsey Holdings Ltd. The question therefore is simple: has he saved this old back-street boozer, or effectively killed it? In fairness, it's not been a pejorative 'old-man's' pub since 2003 and there's been a foodie, loungey ambience since then. Our visit found a nicely refurbished pub - they've been keen to highlight their preservation of the remaining original features - and indeed the wooden panels glow with lustre. It's a shame, then, that the ambience slightly lacked the same lustre. It's clear that you're supposed to come here and eat. Sure, time your visit off-peak and you can sit in an armchair - or prop up the bar - and choose from one of the ales on offer (sadly only one Fuller's beer, which rather misses the "locally sourced" trick). But otherwise, you'll find a restaurant in an old pub. The drinking only tables were too scant to be anything more than an empty gesture - almost a museum piece - to add some 'pub' legitimacy to the 'gastropub' moniker. If you want to eat some arguably good food, come to the Devonshire (don't forget to book), but if you fancy a proper pub, the Duke of York is close by.

reviewed:
25/08/2008

pub features:(click on an icon to see an explanation)

real ales

beer garden

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