The Pig's Ear, Chelsea  

There's a whiff of the continent about the Pig's Ear - helped along by an adaptation of that old Toulouse-Lautrec poster of the chap in the hat and scarf on the sign outside - yet there's still a traditional pub at the heart of things. The interior's somewhat eclectic, with non-gastro paint work and Formica topped tables - there's almost a queue in winter for the seats around the real open fire. Carrying on the porcine theme, trying a pint of Pig's Ear beer from the Uley Brewery in Gloucestershire is almost de rigueur. The bar menu is fairly priced and pretty French in orientation (we can't remember the last time we saw bone marrow on a pub's menu), as is the extensive wine list. There is a dining room upstairs which can be hired for private functions. This is one of the more impressive pub reworkings we've seen recently and one that thankfully doesn't live up to the cockney interpretation of its name.

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