The Old Doctor Butler's Head, London Wall  

Oscar Wilde had it spot on: "Other people are quite dreadful". What right has the heaving mob to invade this glorious, traditional (with a capital T), old world (with a couple of "e"s tacked on), beautiful pub? It's hidden down a tiny alley and easy to miss for first-timers. But the suits track it down lunchtimes and early evenings. Yes, there are those who claim it quietens down in the evening - but then it closes early most nights and what good is a seat as last orders ring out? Through the throng you can see you're in a true, classy Victorian pub complete with genuine gas lighting. The hand pumps feature a good range of beers, including on occasion the moreish and potent Porter. The doorstep sandwiches are reputed to be excellent - but how do you find the space to eat anything bigger than a cocktail sausage? The biggest available free space was probably the horse-trough like hand-basin in the Gent's. Get there early, or get there late, or if needs be just get there and adopt a Churchillian "they shall not pass" stance on whatever square foot you manage to colonise. But get there. It's worth it.

reviewed:
7/4/2008

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