Fox & Anchor, Smithfield  

We've known this historic pub for more than two decades and, after a brief period of closure and uncertainty, it's with some relief that we can report the Fox and Anchor is finally back, although perhaps not quite in the form we would have hoped - at least it hasn't become an office or apartment conversion. Photos of Smithfield's meat market workers on the walls notwithstanding, this pub has made a move upmarket, definitely more pinstripe and far less bloodstained apron and it no longer has the all-are-welcome feel we loved about the old place. However, there's an interesting range of beers on the six hand-pumps, an pretty good wine list and, as is the norm nowadays, the menu's gone gastro (no longer the fry-ups and meat-and-two-veg of old) - naturally with an accompanying price hike. The owners, Malmaison, have kept the pub largely intact (the exterior is listed anyway) and inside the snugs of old are still there. The dark wood and tile work provide a classy and comfortable environment in which to enjoy the rather classy fare. And the staff work hard to keep you happy, perhaps too hard, in our opinion, when sometimes we feel you get asked a little too often if everything is OK. The real downside of this place is the lack of space. It's a narrow pub and if you don't get in early enough (or book) to get a seat, forget it. There's nowhere to stand and sip a pint, you will spend most of your time apologising to bar people and punters as they squeeze past you to get to and from the tables. In summary, the owners have made a pretty good effort with the reincarnated Fox and Anchor, especially if you're looking for another well-run gastropub and it's proving to be very popular. But for us, as we've said before, it's something of a disappointment. It's no longer really a pub, more of a hotel brasserie. Maybe that's what the owners want, but we feel it's a real loss in these parts, where similar brasseries are two-a-penny.

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